PoolSolver

Pool Heater Size Calculator

Two geometry numbers, not one — volume sets the heat-up energy, surface area sets the loss. An honest BTU range rather than a fake-precise single number, because evaporation genuinely varies with weather. And the lever that changes the answer more than the heater you pick: a cover.

Hook

Almost every pool-heater calculator asks for one number — your gallons — and hands you a heater size.

But heating a pool is really two different problems with two different geometry numbers: the energy to warm the water depends on its volume, while the heat it losesdepends on its surface area. Get those two confused and you'll buy a heater that's too small for a windy, uncovered pool — or far too big for a covered one.

Promise

This calculator sizes your heater from the actual physics: the heat-up energy from your volume, the standing heat loss from your surface area, your climate, and whether you run a cover. You'll get an honest heater-size range (not a fake-precise single number, because evaporation genuinely varies with weather), the heat-up time that size delivers, and the one change that cuts heating load the most. Every term derived on the page.

Here's the deal: a pool heater has two jobs — warm the water up, and then keep replacing the heat that escapes the surface — mostly as evaporation. Size it for the heat-up time you want plus the loss at your conditions, and you land it right. We'll show you both halves, and why a cover changes the answer more than almost anything else.

What you'll give us

Both halves of the physics: volume for the heat-up energy and surface area for the standing loss. Don't know your surface? Enter length × width or fall back to a 5-ft average-depth estimate from your gallons — the result panel labels the estimate clearly. The volume calculator deep-links here for the gallons.

Two numbers, not onevolume heats up · surface area loses heat — and they're different numbersYour pool, in cross-sectionloses heat through THIS — surface areaheats THIS up — volumegallons × 8.345 lb/gal × ΔT(this is the EXACT half)depthlength × width = surface area (the loss number)What you give the calculator🛢Volumegal · L · m³Surface areaft² or L × W (the loss number)Current Twnow🎯Target Twwhere you want it🌤Air tempthe loss driver💨Wind exposuresheltered · average · windy🛏Coverthe biggest single leverThe §4.1 wedge — same gallons, different loss20k gal · deep 500 ft² loses 52,500 BTU/hr · shallow 1,000 ft² loses 105,000Exactly double — for the same water. See worked example 7.
Volume sets the energy it takes to warm the pool — pure first-principles, exact. Surface area sets how fast it loses heat — typical-conditions estimate, range. Almost every heater calculator asks for just the gallons and gets the second half wrong; that's the bug this one is built to fix.
Heater calculator input diagram showing volume (the warming side) and surface area (the loss side) as two distinct geometry numbers, plus the seven inputs the calculator needs.

The calculator

Pick a mode (size a heater, or compute heat-up time for one you have), fill the fields, hit Calculate. The result panel reports a class range (never a single fake-precise BTU number), shows the covered alternative regardless of your cover toggle, and breaks the math into its two halves — exact and estimate, labelled differently.

Sets the heat-up energy. Pool volume calculator deep-links here with ?gal= prefilled.

Surface area (the loss number)

Leave blank to estimate from gallons at 5ft average depth (a clear “estimate” badge will show — entering real surface gives a sharper result).

Wind exposure
Cover

The biggest single lever in pool heating — the result panel always shows the cover-on alternative regardless of this toggle.

Default 24 hr (a day). Tight times mean bigger heaters; slow heat-pump sizing assumes you keep the pool warm continuously.

Fuel type (for the recommended class list)

Don't know your gallons? Pool volume calculator — two minutes, any shape, deep-links straight back here with ?gal= prefilled.

Two numbers, not one — volume heats, surface loses

The page's signature insight, and the difference between this calculator and the “just tell me your gallons” ones.

The energy to warm your pool is set by how much water there is — its volume. But the heat your pool loses, hour after hour, is set by how much water is touching the air — its surface area. Those are two different geometry numbers. A deep, small-footprint pool and a shallow, sprawling one can hold the same water but lose heat at completely different rates, because the shallow one has far more surface exposed.

The proof. Two 20,000-gallon pools, same ΔT, same wind, both uncovered:

Deep pool · 500 ft²

52,500 BTU/hr

Standing loss. A 20,000-gal pool that's tall and narrow loses heat at this rate.

Shallow pool · 1,000 ft²

105,000 BTU/hr

Standing loss. Same water, double the surface, exactly double the loss.

Size off gallons alone and you'll undersize the wide pool every time — by a heater class or more. That's why the calculator above asks for surface area as its own input. If you're not sure, the pool volume calculator gives you the gallons and you can plug a tape-measure number for length × width here — that pair gets you to a sharper heater size than any “BTU per gallon” chart can.

Where the heat actually goes — evaporation is the thief

The component breakdown that justifies the model and sets up the cover lever. Read this once and the cover advice in the next section feels obvious.

Where the heat actually goestypical-conditions shares — evaporation dominates because of latent heat60%20%15%5%Evaporationlatent heat — ~1,050 BTU per pound evaporated60%Convection (wind)wind strips the warm surface layer20%Radiationto the cold night sky15%Conduction (ground)the small piece5%1050 BTU/lb evap
Evaporation isn't a small contributor — it's the giant. Every pound of water that escapes as vapor carries about 1050BTU of latent heat with it. That's why a cover changes the answer more than almost anything else (it shuts down the dominant term), why wind matters so much (it accelerates evaporation), and why humidity matters (it sets the vapor-pressure driver). The shares are typical-conditions estimates; weather can swing them noticeably.
Four-mechanism heat-loss breakdown showing evaporation as the dominant component, with the latent-heat-of-vaporization annotation.

Your pool loses heat four ways, and they're not equal. Evaporation is the giant — typically half to two-thirds of the total — because every pound of water that leaves as vapor carries off about 1050 BTU of latent heat with it. Convection (wind cooling the surface) and radiation (heat beaming to a cold night sky) split most of the rest. Conduction into the ground is almost nothing.

That latent-heat mechanism is why evaporation is so costly per pound. The physics doesn't care about your air temperature directly — it cares about the vapor-pressure difference between your warm water and the air just above it. That gap is what humidity and wind set, which is why both matter so much, and why “heat loss = U × area × ΔT” is a useful engineering simplification rather than an exact law. The pool evaporation calculator models that vapor-pressure mechanism specifically — and reconciles to ~60 % of this page's combined surface loss at standard conditions, so the two pages describe the same physics by construction.

We lump the surface losses into a typical-conditions combined coefficient because that's the form a homeowner calculator can actually use. The real number swings 2–3× with your weather — which is exactly why we give the heater size as a range, not a single number. The honesty boundary the §12 negative-space list spells out is built around this fact: the engine is precise; the world isn't.

The cover changes everything

Most heat-loss savings live in evaporation, and a cover shuts evaporation down. This is the single highest-leverage change you can make.

What a cover actually doesE1 conditions — same pool, same air, same wind; only the cover changesEvaporation~60% of lossconvection · radiation · conduction84,000 BTU/hrUNCOVEREDresidual evap29,400 BTU/hrCOVEREDcover saves54.6KBTU every hourday and nightCovered loss ≈ 35% of uncovered loss — the cover kills the dominant term
Most heat-loss savings live in evaporation, and a cover shuts evaporation down. That single change cuts the E1 standing loss from 84,000 to 29,400 BTU per hour — about 54,600 BTU every hour the pool sits, day and night. The biggest single lever in pool heating, and the cheapest to deploy.
Side-by-side bar comparison of uncovered vs covered standing heat loss at the E1 conditions, with the cover-saved BTU per hour annotated.

A cover doesn't just trap a little warmth — it shuts down the dominant loss mechanism entirely. In our standard E1 example, a cover cuts the standing loss from 84,000 to 29,400 BTU per hour — it saves 54,600 BTU every hour the pool sits. Day and night. Continuously.

The sizing payoff: with a cover, the same pool needs a markedly smaller heater (or the same heater heats far faster), because the heater spends its output warming water instead of chasing evaporation. The calculator above always shows you the covered alternative regardless of which toggle you pick — surfacing the lever by construction rather than burying it behind a checkbox.

The cost side of this story — what the saved BTU translate to in dollars per season — lives on the future cost-to-heat calculator (shipping in a later phase). We won't fuel-wash the comparison here; the energy savings are real either way.

Gas vs heat pump — the speed/cost fork

Two pools, two philosophies. Sized differently, used differently.

Gas vs heat pump — two philosophiesqualitative — dollars live on the cost-to-heat page (shipping later)Output rate (BTU/hr) →slowfastCost to run ($ per BTU) ↑cheapexpensiveGas200–400K BTU/hrfast · expensiveHeat pump100–140K · COP ~5–6slow · cheapGas heats fast for hot-by-Saturday • Heat pump holds temperature cheaply for season-long maintenance
Two pools, two philosophies. Gas is a fire hose — fast, but burns expensive fuel. A heat pump moves heat from the air instead of making it, with a coefficient of performance around 5–6, so it puts out far less per hour but uses far less electricity per BTU delivered. Gas wins for fast / intermittent use; heat pump wins for steady / economical use. The dollars depend on fuel rates and efficiency, which is the cost-to-heat page's job — it ships in a later phase.
Two-axis qualitative trade-off chart placing gas heaters in the fast-and-expensive quadrant and heat pumps in the slow-and-cheap quadrant.

A gas heater is a fire hose — 200,000 to 400,000 BTU an hour — so it heats fast and shrugs off cold snaps, but it burns expensive fuel. A heat pump is a slow, efficient pump that moves heat from the air instead of making it: it puts out far less per hour (100,000–140,000) so it heats a cold pool over days, not hours, but it can deliver four to six units of heat per unit of electricity, so it's cheap to run.

The sizing consequence (E5). A 110,000 BTU/hr heat pump on our example pool takes ≈96 hours — ~4 days — to heat from cold. That's fine for a pool you keep warm continuously (its real job is maintenance), wrong for one you want hot by Saturday. Gas wins for fast / intermittent; heat pump wins for steady / economical.

The cost math — what each fuel costs per BTU at your local rates, the COP curve as air temperature drops, the season-long dollars — is the cost-to-heat calculator's job (shipping in a later phase). We won't fuel-wash the comparison here. Both are legitimate choices for the right pool and the right user.

Where the numbers come from

The page's engine in five steps. First-principles where the physics allows; clearly-labelled engineering estimate where it doesn't.

  1. Step 1 · heat-up energy (the EXACT half)

    Energy = mass × specific heat × ΔT. In pool units that's gallons × 8.345 lb/gal × 1 BTU/(lb·°F) × ΔT °F. Water's specific heat is exactly 1 by the definitionof the BTU — the unit was built around it. The 8.345 lb/gal is imported from the salt calculator (same constant the chemistry pages use; CRC at 60 °F), so the two engines can't disagree about what a gallon weighs.

  2. Step 2 · surface heat loss (the ESTIMATE half)

    Loss BTU/hr = U × surface ft² × (Tw − Ta). U = U_BASE + WIND_COEFF × wind mph; covered drops U to ~35% of uncovered. U is a typical-conditions engineering estimate that lumps evaporation, convection, and radiation into one ΔT-proportional form. The real value swings with humidity and wind.

    U_BASE = 5 BTU/(hr·ft²·°F) · WIND_COEFF = 0.4 BTU/(hr·ft²·°F·mph) · evaporation carries latent heat ≈ 1050 BTU/lb (the physics behind §4.2).

  3. Step 3 · required heater size (SIZE mode)

    required BTU/hr = (energy from step 1) ÷ heat-up hours + (loss from step 2). Round UP to the next real heater class for the headline; show the next class above as the upper end of the honest range.

  4. Step 4 · heat-up time (HEAT-UP mode)

    time = energy ÷ (heater output − loss). The subtraction is the catch: if the heater's output is at or below the standing loss, you don't get a long heat-up time, you get a heat-up that never finishes. The engine flags this (we don't print a time-to-never-arrive).

  5. Step 5 · sanity check (E1)

    20,000 gal, 800 ft², ΔT 15 °F, air 70 °F, average wind, uncovered, 24 hr heat-up. Heat-up energy = 2,503,500 BTU. Standing loss = 84,000 BTU/hr. Required = 188,313 BTU/hr → a 200,000–250,000 BTU/hr heater. That's the worked example E1, and it matches the engine to the BTU.

Want to start with sharper inputs? The pool volume calculator gives you gallons for any shape, and you can plug a tape-measure length and width here for surface area. The two-number wedge is real — give it both numbers and the recommendation tightens.

How fast the pool actually warms

Three real engine curves: a 250K gas heater uncovered, the same heater with a cover, and a 110K heat pump uncovered. All at the E1 conditions, computed directly from the engine's loss model — not fabricated curves.

How fast the pool actually warmsE1 conditions — 20,000 gal · 800 ft² · ΔT 15 °F · avg wind7075808501020305075100hours of heater run-timewater temperature (°F)250K gas · uncovered12.3 hr to 85°F250K gas · COVERED10.7 hr to 85°F110K heat pump · uncovered43.4 hr to 85°F
Three real engine curves at the same E1 conditions. The 250K gas + cover combination is the steepest — it spends almost all its output warming water instead of replacing evaporation. The same gas heater uncovered takes longer because it's fighting evaporation continuously. The 110K heat pump tracks a much shallower climb, the way a maintenance-style heater is meant to.
Three engine-computed temperature-versus-time curves for the E1 pool: 250K gas covered, 250K gas uncovered, and 110K heat pump uncovered.

Worked examples — eight common scenarios

Every BTU below comes from the same engine. The §4.1 surface-vs-volume wedge (E7) and the cover wedge (E6) are locked as build invariants — drift in the engine would trip the gate.

Example 1

What size heater for a standard inground (the core case)

20,000 gal · 800 ft² (20×40) · raise 70 → 85 °F · air 70 °F · avg wind · uncovered · 24-hr heat-up

≈188K BTU/hr → a 200K–250K heater

Heat-up energy 2,503,500 BTU. Standing loss 84,000 BTU/hr.

The standing loss is nearly as big as the heat-up load — that's the evaporation tax on an uncovered pool.

Example 2

Same pool, with a cover (the cover lever)

Identical to E1 but covered

Required drops to ≈134K → a 150K heater does the same job

Standing loss falls from 84,000 to 29,400 BTU/hr — a whole heater class smaller, or your 250K heats it far faster.

A cover shrinks the heater you need by a whole class — because it kills the evaporation that was half your load.

Example 3

How long will my 250K heater take? (heat-up-time mode)

250,000 BTU/hr gas heater on the E1 pool, uncovered

≈15 hours

Net power = 250,000 − 84,000 loss = 166,000 BTU/hr. Cover-on alternative: 11.3 hr.

Even a big heater spends a third of its output just replacing losses on an uncovered pool — cover it and the same heat-up takes far less.

Example 4

Spa fast heat (small mass, big heater)

400-gal spa · 30 ft² surface · raise 60 → 102 °F · air 60 °F · covered · 250,000 BTU/hr

≈34 minutes

Heat-up energy 140,196 BTU; net power ≈ 246,913 BTU/hr.

Spas heat in minutes, not hours — tiny thermal mass against a big heater. The opposite of a pool's inertia.

Example 5

Heat-pump sizing (the speed/cost fork)

110,000 BTU/hr heat pump on the E1 pool, heating from cold (uncovered)

≈96 hours (~4.0 days)

Net power = 110,000 − 84,000 = 26,000 BTU/hr.

A heat pump's job is to HOLD temperature cheaply, not to heat from cold fast. Size it for maintenance and keep the pool warm continuously; if you need hot-by-Saturday, that's gas.

Example 6

What a cover actually saves (the wedge, quantified)

E1 conditions

54,600 BTU every hour the pool sits

Uncovered standing loss 84,000, covered 29,400. Continuous, day and night.

That's not a rounding error — it's more than half your heat loss, gone, for the price of a cover. The biggest single lever in pool heating.

Example 7

Same gallons, double the loss (the §4.1 proof)

Two 20,000-gal pools · ΔT 15 · average wind · uncovered: deep 500 ft² vs shallow 1,000 ft²

52,500 vs 105,000 BTU/hr — exactly double

Same water, same heat-up energy, completely different standing loss.

Heat loss tracks surface, not volume. A wide shallow pool needs a bigger heater than its gallons suggest — which is why we ask for both numbers.

Example 8

Wind more than doubles the loss

E1 pool · ΔT 15 · uncovered: still air vs 15 mph wind

60,000 vs 132,000 BTU/hr — 2.2× swing

Wind strips the warm boundary layer above the water, accelerating evaporation.

An exposed, windy pool needs a markedly bigger heater than a sheltered one. A windbreak or a cover is worth real BTU.

Reference tables

Three crawlable tables, CC BY 4.0. Note the honesty split: T2 is exact physics; T1 and T3 are typical-conditions estimates. Different colours of math, labelled differently.

T1 · Recommended heater class by surface area × ΔT

ESTIMATE RANGE

24-hr heat-up · average wind (5 mph) · uncovered · plaster-pool typical air ΔT. Each cell is the recommended class + the next class above; weather can swing the answer 2–3× because evaporation does.

Recommended gas heater class by pool surface area and ΔT, with the next-class-above as the upper bound
Surface (ft²)ΔT 10 °FΔT 15 °FΔT 20 °FΔT 25 °F
300150200K150200K150200K150200K
500150200K150200K200250K200250K
800200250K250333K333400K333400K
1,000250333K333400K333400K400400K
1,500333400K400400K400400K400400K

T2 · Heat-up energy by volume × ΔT (BTU)

EXACT PHYSICS

gallons × 8.345 lb/gal × 1.0 BTU/(lb·°F) × ΔT °F. No weather variance — water's specific heat is the same in spring and summer. This is the half of the math you can trust to the BTU.

Heat-up energy in BTU by pool volume and temperature change
Volume (gal)ΔT 10 °FΔT 15 °FΔT 20 °FΔT 25 °FΔT 30 °F
5,000417K626K835K1043K1252K
10,000835K1252K1669K2086K2504K
15,0001252K1878K2504K3129K3755K
20,0001669K2504K3338K4173K5007K
25,0002086K3129K4173K5216K6259K
30,0002504K3755K5007K6259K7511K

T3 · Standing-loss multipliers (the levers)

ESTIMATE

Relative effect of the levers you can pull on a 20×40 pool (800 ft²) at ΔT 15. Cover ratio is the COVER_LOSS_FRACTION engine constant; wind chips use the sheltered / average / windy preset values.

Standing-loss multipliers for cover and wind levers
LeverLoss (BTU/hr)Vs uncovered baseline
Uncovered baseline (avg 5 mph wind)84,0001.00×
+ cover29,4000.35× (35% of uncovered)
Wind preset: Sheltered (~1.5 mph)67,2000.80× baseline
Wind preset: Average (~5 mph)84,0001.00× baseline
Wind preset: Windy (~15 mph)132,0001.57× baseline

All three tables released under CC BY 4.0. Attribute PoolSolver and link back. T2 cells are EXACT physics; T1 and T3 cells are typical-conditions estimates — quote them with the label they ship with.

Sources & methodology

This is the foundation of the shared lib/thermal/ engine now consumed by the cost-to-heat, evaporation, and heat-up-time calculators — the heating cluster is complete.

Heat-up energy follows the first-principles definition E = mass × specific heat × ΔT. Water's specific heat is exactly 1.0 BTU/(lb·°F) by the definition of the British thermal unit; the 8.345 lb/gal is the same CRC water-density constant the salt and chemistry pages import from lib/dosing/core.ts. One source for water's weight; the two engines can't disagree about it.

Heat-loss model. The four-mechanism decomposition (evaporation ~50–70 %, convection, radiation, conduction) traces to standard ASHRAE pool-engineering references. We lump the surface losses into a combined U-coefficient that is linear in wind and dropped to ~35 % of uncovered when a cover is in place. This is a typical-conditions engineering estimate, not a constant of nature— evaporation tracks the water-to-air vapor-pressure difference, which swings 2–3× with humidity and wind. Every place we expose U or its components, the label says “estimate.”

Latent heat of vaporization (~1,050 BTU/lb) is the physics behind why evaporation is so costly per pound of water lost, and why a cover (which shuts down evaporation) is the biggest lever. The cover-fraction constant in the engine is the simplification of that physics — calibrated to ASHRAE-typical conditions, not derived from your individual weather.

Heater output classesfollow residential manufacturer product lines (150K / 200K / 250K / 333K / 400K for gas; 100K–140K for heat pumps). The sizing recommendation rounds UP to the next real class and surfaces the next class above as the upper bound of an honest range. We don't print a single fake-precise BTU number; the §12 negative-space list is built around refusing it.

The honesty paragraph (heating edition)

The heat-up half is exact. The loss half is a range. That asymmetry is the whole methodology. T2 (heat-up energy by volume × ΔT) ships labeled EXACT; T1 (heater class) and T3 (lever multipliers) ship labeled ESTIMATE. We give a class range, not a single number, because evaporation varies with weather you can't enter in a form field — and a calculator that pretends otherwise is making the same error this page exists to fix. Cost is out of scope here — running cost depends on fuel, efficiency, and your local rates, which is the cost-to-heat calculator's job. And gas-line / electrical / combustion hookup is a licensed-trade job: we size, a pro installs.

About two coincidental-digit constants. The thermal engine's WATER_SPECIFIC_HEAT = 1.0 and WIND_COEFF = 0.4share digit strings with two chemistry constants on this site (dihydrate calcium chloride purity = 1.0 in the calcium engine, and the Langelier C-term offset = 0.4 in the LSI engine). They are genuinely different physical concepts — water's specific heat is defined by the BTU, and the wind coefficient is a heat-transfer correlation. The grep gate that enforces single-source discipline counts assignments per concept, not digit appearances. Documenting it here so any future “consolidate” instinct is checked.

The heating cluster — now complete. The cost-to-heat, evaporation, and heat-up-time calculators all consume this same lib/thermal/heatloss.ts engine — designed shared, not page-local — the way the chemistry cluster shares acidbase.ts across the pH, alkalinity, and LSI pages. Explore the volume, LSI, and full calculator hub for everything live.

Frequently asked questions

What size heater do I need for my pool?
Use the calculator above with your gallons, surface area, ΔT, climate, and cover state. You'll get a range/class (e.g. 200,000–250,000 BTU/hr), not a single number, because evaporation varies with weather. Surface area is its own input — see the next FAQ for why.
Why do you ask for surface area AND volume?
Because they're two different geometry numbers solving two different problems. Volume sets the energy it takes to warm the water (exact, first-principles). Surface area sets how fast the water loses heat (estimate, weather-dependent). Two 20,000-gallon pools — one deep and small-footprint, one shallow and wide — can lose heat at completely different rates. Example 7 shows the proof: 500 ft² loses 52,500 BTU/hr; 1,000 ft² loses 105,000.
How long will it take to heat my pool?
Heat-up time equals heat-up energy divided by net power (heater output minus standing loss). For E1 conditions (20,000 gal, 800 ft², ΔT 15, average wind, uncovered) a 250K gas heater takes about 15 hours; a 110K heat pump takes about 96 hours (~4 days). The calculator above does the math for your numbers; a cover changes the answer dramatically.
Does a pool cover really save that much?
Yes — it's the biggest single lever in pool heating. A cover shuts down evaporation, which is typically 50–70 % of total heat loss. In our standard example a cover cuts standing loss from 84,000 to 29,400 BTU/hr — saving 54,600 BTU every hour the pool sits, continuously, day and night. The energy savings are real regardless of fuel choice.
Gas heater or heat pump — which size?
Different philosophies. A gas heater (200K–400K BTU/hr) heats fast but burns expensive fuel — sized for “hot by Saturday.” A heat pump (100K–140K, COP ~5–6) heats slowly but runs cheaply — sized for continuous maintenance. Heat from cold? Gas wins (see the heat-up-time calculator for the actual hours). Hold temperature for the season? Heat pump wins. The dollar comparison depends on local fuel rates and efficiency — the cost-to-heat calculator handles that.
Why does wind matter so much?
Because wind strips the saturated boundary layer right above the water surface, accelerating evaporation — the dominant loss mechanism. Loss roughly doubles from still air to 15 mph wind (Example 8: 60,000 → 132,000 BTU/hr in our standard example). An exposed or coastal pool needs a markedly bigger heater than a sheltered courtyard pool with the same chemistry. A windbreak or a cover is worth real BTU.
Can a heater be too small?
Yes — if its output is at or below the standing loss at your conditions, the heater never reaches your target. It only treads water. The calculator's heat-up-time mode refuses to print a numberin this case (a heat-up time that never arrives isn't an honest answer) and tells you the two ways forward: add a cover (drops the loss into reachable range), or step up a heater class.
How much does it cost to run? / What's the BTU per gallon?
Running cost depends on fuel, efficiency, and local rates — that's the cost-to-heat calculator's job. We don't fuel-wash the answer here. As for “BTU per gallon”: it's a misleading shortcut because heat loss tracks surface, not volume — the same gallons in two different pool shapes can need very different heaters. The two-number method (volume AND surface) is the honest replacement for the per-gallon rule of thumb. Try the volume calculator for the gallons side; tape-measure your surface area for the loss side.

Related calculators

Next in Pool Heating: Pool Heating Cost Calculator.

Related across clusters: Pool Pump Run Time Calculator.

All Pool Heating calculators: browse the hub.